PARIS
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Parc Monceau- 17th Arrondissement (but near 16th): Where the Parisiens take their children. Fun and beautiful, snugly ensconced in a busy neighborhood. It's in several Monet paintings. Luxemburg Gardens (Le Jardin de Luxemburg) (located behind the Odéon National Theater, off Boulevard Saint Michel): Some childrens' activities (including sailboat pond and playgrounds): More formal (and much bigger) than Parc Monceau, elegant, but a great place for a family stroll; Ponds, trees, flowers, a big royal building, and lots of sculptures (including my favorite statue in Paris, the Medici Fountain, to the right of the main building as you face it from the main ponds). (On Rue Monsieur Le Prince, near Luxemburg Gardens, just off Boulevard St. Michel, is the only real pizza place in Paris; the only place you can get pizza by the slice; it's called "Slice.") Rodin Museum: My favorite museum in Paris. Smaller and charming. Home to The Thinker, The Kiss, The Gates of Hell, and more (of some of the most beautiful sculpture ever imagined). There's a garden out back that was home to a family of ducks. |
Orangerie: The less crowded, less famous museum in front of the Louvre, sister to the Jeux de Paume. It has some Impressionist and Post-Impressionist art. But, more importantly, it houses Monet's Water Lilies (Les Nymphaeas). Monet painted these murals as a gift to the people of Paris on the occasion of Peace (after WWI?). They occupy a special room in the basement that is so placid that it could bring Frankie out of his most rambunctious mood into his most pleasant and contemplative (at least that's the effect it has on me).
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Musée d'Orsay: Impressionists in a converted RR station. I've
heard it's great but has overcrowded walls.
Musée Marmottan: Monet museum. It was robbed several years ago but I think they've recovered the painting. It's great. FOOD Ice Cream: Glaces Bertillon, on Ile de la Cité, the center and oldest part of Paris, the original walled city. The most flavorful (but not the most creamy) ice cream I've tasted. Hot Chocolate: Salon de Thé Angelina. Thick, rich, and can keep you awake all day. Fancy place on Rue de Rivoli, near The Tuilleries (Gardens around the Louvre). |
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(MacDonald's-There's one on Les Champs Elysées if there is a strong need for a transitional food object.)
Free Time (?) was the best French burger place when I was there. (Yes, the name is in English)
Hippopotamus: Was the best steak/burger chain. Fun food.
Don't Bother: La Tour d'Argent (great service but stuffy and starchy; Cathay Manor has Peking Duck is better than the house specialty of "pressed" duck.) Le Pré Catalan- a beautiful restaurant with a view of Les Bois de Boulogne that is overpriced and silly.
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Good touristic place: Pub St. Germain: Good onion soup and beers from around the world. La Méditaranée is a fish restaurant located behind L'Odéon national theater near Luxembourg Gardens. It has character and menus drawn by George Cocteau. They serve plentiful chocolate mousse (and gave me seconds and thirds each time I cleaned me plate!). Famous: Aux Deux Magaux, Le Cupole, Le Dome - Cafés where famous ex-patriot writers and French existentialists would spend their time. Café de la Paix-right near the Opera house. The Street: Waffles = Gauffres Crêpes Crême de Marrons: Chestnut cream: wonderful, rich topping especially good on street waffles Cafés: Coupe Denmark=ice cream sundae, Tarte Tatin is wonderful carmelized apple pie that is nearly impossible to find just right in the United States |
Fauchon: Paris's Balducci's: Great place for elegant picnic shopping
Places to go/see: 4th Arrondissement/Place des Voges--Historic, fun, good restaurants around the area, interesting walking.
Elegant: Rue Fauberg St. Honoré-Like Madison Avenue in the 70s, but better. Also, Les Tuilleries (gardens by the Louvre) and parts of Rue de Rivoli. Place Vendôme.
Young: Place St. Michel and the nearby streets, especially at night. Tourists and cheap food, but also some fun little places (I used to go to a hole-in-the-wall piano bar called Les Trois Maillets).
Touristic: Les Champs Elysées: Best croissants I ever had from the patisserie in the back of the Arcade du Lido (small indoor shopping area, enter from street and walk back into). Tall: Tour Montparnasse-Big building with observation deck.
Montmartre Sacré Coeur: Beautiful basilica with great view of Paris from the dome. Steps tend to attract musicians, etc. Near there is where all the artists paint you in the street (famous thing).
First Arrondissement: Oldest part of Paris. Original City walls encircled here. Ile de la Cité, Nôtre Dame, old buildings, restaurants, bars, etc. On the left bank, behind Nôtre Dame, was a very pleasant restaurant where I had great chicken liver outdoors with a view, etc. Not expensive.
Tours: Les Bateau Mouches (tourist boats), particularly in the evening, Les Egoux de Paris (sewer tour).
Getting Around: I took the Metro everywhere. It was safe during normal hours but not a good idea late at night. Buses are OK but confusing. Walking is great but streets are rarely parallel. You need to pay attention and have a map handy. Taxis were OK though can be pricy.
****>>>Watch out for hordes of gipsy children. They are highly aggressive and brazen pickpockets.